I used the basic construction technique for a Scottish kilt, but instead of a few deep sets for pleats, I have *31* (that's thirty-one) 3/4 inch pleats running from front hip around and back to front hip.
Oy. The very pretty calcutta cloth can't be trusted to hold the pleats; it's hand is much too soft, so this entailed:
- Measure and mark
- Pin and press the pleats
- Stitch the top 4" as a seam on the inside
- Edgestitch the full length of the inside crease
- Edgestitch the outside creases from hem to the end of the seam
- Topstitch over the seam (matching the edgestitching on the crease)
- Measure the length of the pleated waist... damn. Need 28"*, ended up with 25.5"
- Add 3 more pleats as above
*The center front is a 9 inch wide smooth lapped "apron", similar to a Scottish kilt (although that has a much wider apron). This is where the embroidery on the barrista kilt will go, and over which the quilted apron lays.