May 14th, 2006

Jungleboy Transparent

Pleats, pleats and more pleats

I just finished the major construction of the pleated kilt for the Fashion Show piece. Photos to follow (they are taking a while to upload)

I used the basic construction technique for a Scottish kilt, but instead of a few deep sets for pleats, I have *31* (that's thirty-one) 3/4 inch pleats running from front hip around and back to front hip.

Oy. The very pretty calcutta cloth can't be trusted to hold the pleats; it's hand is much too soft, so this entailed:

  • Measure and mark

  • Pin and press the pleats

  • Stitch the top 4" as a seam on the inside

  • Edgestitch the full length of the inside crease

  • Edgestitch the outside creases from hem to the end of the seam

  • Topstitch over the seam (matching the edgestitching on the crease)

  • Measure the length of the pleated waist... damn. Need 28"*, ended up with 25.5"

  • Add 3 more pleats as above

*The center front is a 9 inch wide smooth lapped "apron", similar to a Scottish kilt (although that has a much wider apron). This is where the embroidery on the barrista kilt will go, and over which the quilted apron lays.